Exploring Now

Sometimes, the most magical experiences in life are the ones that happen by chance—those unexpected moments of serendipity that lead us on paths we couldn’t have planned. Such was the case for us when, by a stroke of luck or perhaps fate, Amala and I found ourselves in Bali during the sacred celebration of Nyepi, staying with a warm and welcoming Balinese family just outside of Ubud.

Our journey to Bali was not planned with Nyepi in mind. It was a spontaneous decision, driven by a desire to explore a new culture and immerse ourselves once again in an unknown place. Little did I know that our arrival would coincide with one of the most important and profound days in the Balinese calendar.

After we landed in Bali we learned we arrived just in time for Nyepi. I could sense a palpable shift in the atmosphere—a sense of anticipation and reverence that seemed to permeate the air. Everywhere I looked, preparations were underway for the upcoming festivities. The streets were adorned with intricate penjor (decorative bamboo poles), colorful offerings graced every doorstep, and the sound of gamelan music filled the air.

It was during this time that we had the good fortune to stay with a wonderful Balinese family who graciously housed and fed us during Nyepi. From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed with open arms and treated as an honored guest in their home as we stayed in the honeymoon suite. Their kindness and hospitality knew no bounds, and I felt truly blessed to be embraced by their warmth and generosity. Amala loved their 8 year old daughter and the grandfather told me about the history of their family of artisans, how their home was laid out in a particular manner. He lent me a book to read with family history and art.

In the heart of Bali’s rich cultural tapestry lies a captivating tradition that captures the imagination and spirit of the island—the Ogoh-Ogoh Parade. This colorful and vibrant spectacle, held annually on the eve of Nyepi, the Balinese Day of Silence, is a celebration of art, creativity, and spiritual purification that brings communities together in a joyous display of cultural heritage.

The Ogoh-Ogoh Parade is a highlight of the Nyepi festivities, serving as a symbolic ritual to drive away evil spirits and negative energies from the island. The term “ogoh-ogoh” refers to elaborate papier-mâché effigies, often depicting mythical creatures, demons, and other malevolent beings, which are paraded through the streets in a riot of color and sound.

Ogoh Ogoh Parade

Preparations for the Ogoh-Ogoh Parade begin weeks in advance, with communities coming together to design and create their towering creations. Skilled artisans and craftsmen meticulously craft the intricate details of each ogoh-ogoh, infusing them with personality and character that reflect the unique spirit of their village or neighborhood.

As the sun sets on the eve of Nyepi, the streets of Bali come alive with the sound of gamelan music, chanting, and the rhythmic beat of drums. Locals adorned in traditional attire gather to witness the spectacle, eagerly anticipating the procession of ogoh-ogoh as they make their way through the streets.

The ogoh-ogoh themselves are a sight to behold—towering structures adorned with vibrant colors, intricate designs, and fearsome visages that capture the imagination and awe of onlookers. Each one represents a symbolic manifestation of evil and negativity, and the parade serves as a ritualistic exorcism to cleanse the island of these malevolent forces.

Accompanied by a cacophony of noise and energy, the ogoh-ogoh are paraded through the streets, carried aloft by teams of enthusiastic revelers. Dancing, chanting, and drumming, they weave their way through the community, drawing spectators into the rhythm and spirit of the celebration.

As the procession reaches its crescendo, the ogoh-ogoh are brought to a central location, where they are set ablaze in a spectacular display of fire and light. The flames consume the towering structures, symbolizing the triumph of good over evil and the purification of the island’s spirit in preparation for Nyepi.

The Ogoh-Ogoh Parade is more than just a cultural event—it is a testament to the resilience, creativity, and communal spirit of the Balinese people. It is a time to come together, to celebrate tradition, and to reaffirm the values of unity, harmony, and spiritual renewal that lie at the heart of Balinese culture.

For those fortunate enough to witness the spectacle of the Ogoh-Ogoh Parade, it is an experience that leaves an indelible impression—an immersion into the rich tapestry of Balinese culture and a celebration of the boundless creativity and spirit that define this enchanting island.

As Nyepi drew near, we found myself swept up in the excitement and reverence of the occasion, there was praying at the community temple down the street and family coming to pray at the family temple. Together with my newfound family, I participated in the rituals and ceremonies that preceded Nyepi, from the vibrant processions of Pengrupukan to the solemn prayers and offerings that marked the arrival of the sacred day.

When Nyepi finally arrived, the island fell into a profound silence—a stillness that seemed to envelop everything in its embrace. With no lights, no sounds, and no activity, it was as if time itself had come to a standstill. Even the airport was shut down and police were patrolling the streets to make sure no one was leaving their designated places for the day, unless there was an emergency. In the quietude of the day and night, I found myself reflecting on the beauty and significance of this sacred day, and the deep wisdom it held for those willing to listen.

Throughout Nyepi, my Balinese family and I remained together, sharing stories, laughter, food and moments of quiet contemplation. As we sat beneath the starlit sky, surrounded by the gentle sounds of nature inside the family compound, I felt a profound sense of gratitude for the serendipitous journey that had brought me to this place and this moment.

In the days that followed Nyepi, robustly returned to its usual rhythm, I found myself pleasantly changed by the experience, an inner quiet took over. Our time in Bali has been beautiful—it has been a journey of the heart, a journey of connection, and a journey of discovery. And as we bid farewell to our Balinese family Amala cried for a minute and as we go onto explore more of the island that has captured our hearts, I knew that Nyepi would always hold a special place in my soul—a reminder of the magic that awaits when we surrender to the beauty of the unknown.

Will write more soon!

Love,

Michelle & Amala